Oman today_ Maison Margiela presented a haute couture collection in a raw, mysterious setting—an underground-like space with worn and somber walls. The atmosphere evoked the brand’s legacy of secrecy and artistic anonymity. This show marked Glenn Martens’ first experience as the lead designer for the house’s haute couture line, following his recent integration into the brand’s creative team.
In crafting this collection, Martens drew upon the identity and codes of the Maison, revisiting familiar elements through a contemporary lens. Clear references to Martin Margiela’s past work were evident in the deconstructed and layered silhouettes, material choices, and overall presentation.
One of the most striking elements of the show was the use of masks to obscure the models’ faces—an intentional nod to Margiela’s original technique of removing individual identity to direct full attention to the garments. This gesture, once again, served not only as a return to the brand’s foundational philosophy but also as a subtle critique of today’s fashion culture and a reminder of values long overlooked.